Power Shearing
by Bill Safreed, Log House Llamas, Pleasantville, OHIO

This article is intended to be an introduction for those who are thinking about getting and using electric shears but don’t know where to start. We’ll discuss the types and brands of shearing machines, the blades used, what you can expect to pay to get started and some tips on use and care of electric shears.

Shearing with electric shears or clippers is done for the same purposes as hand shears or scissors: for the comfort of the llama, to enhance their looks and to harvest that wonderful fiber. But with electric you can often shear faster and closer to the skin with smoother results and much less fatigue for your hands and arms.

There is a wide variety of brands, types and styles of electric shears available. With llamas being the new kid on the block we use shears that were originally designed for sheep, goats and horses

The venerable Oster brand shears (older versions are branded Oster-Sunbeam) include the ClipMaster, ShowMaster and ShearMaster and the smaller GroomMaster models. Other than the GroomMaster these are large, metal bodied machines used for many years by professional and serious amateur sheep and goat shearers. Many of the models are available with variable speed motors to match the cutting action to the needs of the shearing job. Most of these types use the standard three inch, three and four point cutter shear heads. The Oster models cost in the $200 to $300 range. Sheep type shears are also made by Heiniger, Andis and Premier in the same price range.

A similar machine to the Lister is available from Premier and is called the model 1000c. It uses the same blades and motor as the Lister but with an improved, metal head instead of plastic, and numerous other improvements to the Lister design. A 1000c kit costs about $225. Premier also has available a clipper head for their 3000 and 4000 model sheep type shearing machines that allows the use of the Lister blades. Premier is also making blades that are a direct replacement for the Lister blades, but the most popular type, the Wizard is not available from Premier. Andis has their model LG-C-68015 which appears to be similar to the Lister , but uses its own type of blades.

Cordless tools are are all the rage among the handyman set and there are cordless electric clippers available as well. The Showman is a cordless version in the Lister line of shears that runs on any 12 volt battery. A complete kit will run from about $360 to $445. Andis also makes a battery version of the 68015 clipper called the model RC 68005. This clipper runs around $300. Generally these cordless types would be best used for small jobs and touch up at home and shows due to limited battery life.

Electric shearing blades consist of two parts. A comb or lower blade is fixed to the cutter head of the machine and does not move. This fixed blade is against the llama’s body as you cut. The cutter or upper blade sits on top of the comb and moves side to side, cutting the fiber as it passes through the comb. All shears have a tensioning device, usually a knob or a nut, to adjust the pressure between the upper and lower blades.

In most cases the blades designed for shearing sheep will work for shearing llamas. Finer blades are available for all the shearing machines mentioned that were designed for goats and horses and they work well on llamas. In general you’ll want combs or blades with about 12 to 20 teeth. The more teeth the finer the cut. One advantage to more teeth is less chance for nicking or cutting the llama, but finer types are somewhat harder to push through the fiber than more open blades with fewer, wider space teeth. This can be important for llamas with matted or very dense fiber.

As you can probably imagine there are a myriad of combs and cutters available for the traditional sheep-type shearing machines. I even found a 13 tooth comb from Heiniger called Camelid. (Perhaps our shearing needs are being noticed!) Cutters and combs are usually sold separately and cost up to about $20 for combs and about $5 to $8 for cutters. Cutters are usually 3 or 4 point (3 or 4 cutting teeth). I also found a 9 tooth cutter available from Lister.

For the Lister Stablemate-type shears the Wizard style of blades (13 tooth comb, 20 tooth is available) seem to be the type favored for llamas, and the Course style, with an 18 tooth comb, a close second. It is not well known that Wizard blades come in two types: the LR has beveled-tip teeth that are longer and more rounded than the SS that has teeth that are sharp to the end. I’ve use both and they work equally well but watch those points on the SS! A semi-pro shearer I know prefers the Course blades as he can shear quickly and get a smooth result with little chance of nicks and cuts. Lister blades should always be used and sharpened together as a set, don’t mix up your upper and lower blades. Lister blades cost in the $35 to $50 range for the set. Lister blades should only be sharpened on a lapping machine to get the longest life and sharpest result.

Sources for shears and blades:

Premier 1 Supplies (also do sharpening for most blades) 800-282-663
Mid-States Wool Growers Cooperative. 800-841-9665
Useful Llama Items. 800-635-5262

There are a number of Internet web sites that have shears, blades and accessories for sale and they can be good sources for information as well. A word of caution, buy your shears from an American web site if you choose this route, shears sold to the European market run on different electrical voltage than we use here and have different plug connections.

The first machine you should use on the llama in the shearing process is your blower. Dirt and grit in the fiber lead to rapid dulling of the blades. Very thoroughly blow out the areas to be sheared until no more dust is coming out.

Assemble your shearing machine according to the manufacturers instructions. Adjust the tension on the blades according to the instructions. On the Lister, for example, the knob is tightened all the way down and backed off 1 1/2 turns. If for some reason the machine fails to clip smoothly it is likely you‘ve not correctly adjusted the tensioning. You should increase or decrease the tension - but not more than a ¼ turn or less at a time to achieve optimum cutting. In most cases failure to clip correctly is an operator problem rather than a fault with the machine. If the blades fail to cut avoid any attempt to increase the pressure on the blades (tightening the tension) as this will lead to excessive heat build up and will rapidly cause the blades to overheat and become dull. Hot blades are also uncomfortable for the llama and can even burn the skin. Have a spare set of blades available so you can finish the job at hand if the set you are using stops cutting from being blunted .

You should give your blades an initial oiling in the places indicated in the instructions. Use a quality clipper oil or good light machine oil and not common motor, WD-40 or household oil. Clipper oils have only a faint scent unlike more common oils and won’t contaminate your fleece.

Make sure your shearing area is clean and you have enough cord length to move freely around both sides of the llama. Most shears have about a 15 foot cord but add a good extension cord if needed. Have something to put the fiber into, preferably something with a big open top that you can easily drop the fiber into. This will speed up your shearing job as you will find you are shearing faster than with hand shears and will need to move the fiber quickly from llama to container.

As you shear, keep your blades clean and well oiled at all times. Follow the manufacture’s instructions for time between oiling. Oiling of blades can be carried out when the machine is running or stationary. The clipper will not cut if hair or dirt gets between the blades. Hair can get trapped between blades and hold them apart enough to interfere with the clipper performance. I find a soft brush, such as an old paint brush can be used to brush the fiber out of the blades and to clear the air intake screens on the body of the machine as you shear.

Some shearers use a blade wash to clean and cool the blades while shearing, either purchased or home made. A formula I have seen for blade wash is K-1 Kerosene mixed with an equal part of motor oil. Dip the blades into the wash and briefly turn on the clipper to wash out the hair and dirt. Shake the wash mix out thoroughly and wipe off the blades. One caution, I find that the petroleum smell stays on the fiber so we don’t use the blade wash when we are shearing for fiber we are going to keep. Some folks also use diesel fuel for their blade wash. We’ve found this contamination makes the fiber useless for any purpose.

How long each blade set will cut will vary according to what you are cutting, the cleaner the llamas are the more life you’ll get from the blades. We seem to be able to shear about four or five with show cuts per set of Lister blades. For our herd of 19 llamas and 2 alpacas we have five sets of blades on hand to get us through the shearing season.

The clipping machine should be cleaned after each use. Remove the blades and clean them, next use a soft brush to clean thoroughly both the cutter head and all of the components parts within and the body of the clipper. Reassemble the machine carefully and oil any moving parts.

When not in use, having been thoroughly cleaned and oiled, the machine should be stored in its case or a box in a dry place, preferably in your house. Do not leave in tack rooms or stables as they are often humid and dusty. The same should apply to all blades. Blades should be wiped with oil and stored in the wrapping they were shipped in or in a blade case. Blades are made of high carbon steel to maintain their sharp edge but they will rust easily if not kept oiled.

Hopefully you now have enough basic information to want to start power shearing for yourself. Good luck!