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Important Announcements from the ILR |
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The LAMARIBBEAN Cruise . . . in celebration of llamas An ILR Conference Reunion of Old and New Llama Friends - check out the Lamaribbean web site - www.lamaribbean.com!! January 29 - February 3, 2007 |
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A NEW I Want A Llama publication will be coming out in 2006. You have an opportunity to reach old and new llama owners by being included in the advertising section for a mere $50. Call the office for specifics.. |
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Events Calendar |
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May 8, 2006
RE: It has been my pleasure to visit with you.
Dear ILR Members,
It's that time of year - shows and sales are going full blast. It has been my privilege to travel to various events and to visit in person with many of you. Every time I come away from such events weary from fitting in another trip but with a great feeling in my gut about the llama people out there - the llama industry is made up of so many wonderful people it's a pleasure to spend time with them. I haven't been able to meet all of you but I'm looking forward to connecting with more of you as I continue to travel to events in 2006. Hopefully I'll be able to connect with even more of you on the seas of the caribbean in January of 2007 - check out the Lamaribbean site at www.lamaribbean.com!
Due to my traveling, this message is short this month but I'll be back next month with more to say.
Happy spring and summer travels to all of you.
Sincerely,
Jan L. Wassink
for the ILR Board of Directors
Kathi McKinney , Karen Baum , Mark Smith, Sally Taylor, Sally Rucker
2007 Lamaribbean Cruise / Conference Information
. . . in celebration of llamas
An ILR Conference Reunion of Old and New Llama Friends
Registrations are coming in and from what we've experienced and heard from others,
the cruise is 'the talk of the town'!
Be a part of it - register today!!
Information including registration forms, cruise and shore tour specifics available at:
If you have friends or family who would like to go on the cruise but not be involved in the llama conference activities, they are welcome to join us. They would register for the cruise but NOT the conference.
Packing With Llamas -
– ILR Brochure #10 by Stanlynn Daughtery 
Llamas' intelligence, natural agility and calm disposition make them outstanding pack animals. For over 4,000 years llamas have been used to transport goods across the rugged Andean mountains in South America. Today they are found all across the United States and Canada, carrying loads for North American backcountry travelers. Here llamas serve as the pack animal of choice in situations that call for minimal environmental impact, ease of handling, agility and surefootedness.
Former backpackers, outdoor photographers, and public agency field crews use llamas to take the load off their own backs. High country fishermen enjoy casting across alpine lakes in float tubes packed in by their llamas. Hunters successfully employ llamas to pack game out of rugged areas that would be inaccessible to horses or mules. Families with small children have trained their llamas to accept a lightweight rider, enabling their youngsters to take longer backcountry journeys. Commercial llama packers have led scores of adventurous travellers on truly unique outdoor vacations with the support of their woolly packing companions.
Llamas for Packing
Any llama in good physical condition may be used for packing. Many owners choose to have their pack llamas gelded (neutered) unless they will be using them for breeding. Geldings tend generally to get along better in a herd with fewer dominance disputes and are easier to tend in a mixed pack string of males and females. To avoid injury during normal pasture roughhousing behavior, all adult males should have their fighting teeth trimmed.
More and more often non-breeding female llamas are being trained to pack. If they are eventually used for breeding, packing duties should be restricted during the three or four months prior to birthing and for a similar period after. As social, herd-oriented animals, llamas prefer living with other llamas or with other herd animals such as sheep or goats.
Once a llama has learned to stand to be caught and be easily haltered, and will follow readily on a loose lead, he may begin pack training. During these lessons he should learn to accept a saddle on his back and cinches around his belly before being loaded with lightweight, bulky packs. Additional training should include learning to walk into a trailer and allowing his feet to be picked up for examination and trimming. Most llamas quickly learn packing tasks when they are taught in a calm, consistent, and patient manner.
The distance a pack llama can travel is affected by its condition and natural athletic ability as well as its load and the terrain it will cover. A seasoned pack llama that is moderately loaded and in excellent physical condition should be able to cover 10-15 miles on well graded trails. Steep trails or especially heavy packs will shorten this distance. Young llamas and those in the early stages of training will be comfortable with much shorter distances. They will also benefit from an easy hiking pace and regular rest stops along the way.
When they are between two and three years old, llamas may begin carrying lightweight loads. At this young age they are still physically maturing and should not be asked to pack more than 40 pounds including their pack saddle. While youngsters should be limited to lightweight loads, mature llamas three and a half to four years old and in good physical condition may carry from one quarter to one third of their optimum body weight. Any llama that is overweight and out of condition will be limited in his ability to carry a loaded pack. At times this may cause them to lie down in the trail and pause for a brief rest. Proper conditioning is essential when owners wish to pack their llamas with full loads and cover long distances. A healthy, well cared for llama should be able to continue to pack for at least ten years.
Llama Packing Equipment
A variety of pack systems have been developed especially for llamas. These usually consist of a saddle and two pack bags, often called panniers. Most systems have a method of attaching lightweight, bulky items on top. They may also feature a breast collar and rump strap (a breeching or crupper) to fasten the load more securely on the animal.
Llama pack saddles come in two basic forms: frame pack saddles and frameless “soft” pack saddles. Llama packers may choose from several different types of frame packs made from lightweight aluminum, fiberglass or wood. A frame saddle is used with a saddle blanket to protect the llama's back. It may carry a pair of panniers or it may be used to carry loads tied on with more traditional rope hitches. Soft pack saddles are usually made from leather or another stiff material, such a cordura nylon. They usually have an internal method of padding the llama’s back along either side of its spine for the animal’s comfort and protection. These saddles are used with specially designed attaching panniers.
Any type of pack saddle should be checked to assure that it fits properly on the llama's back. With any type of saddle there should be adequate spinal clearance and care should be taken not to place heavy items directly over the llama's spine. No part of the saddle should dig into the animal's back or cause rubbing or soreness.
In addition to the rest of their camping equipment, llama packers should take along a swivel picket stake and 10-20 foot line for staking out their llamas in camp, a hand scales for weighing and balancing loads, a curry brush to remove debris before saddling, an extra halter, and a ration of supplemental feed. In addition, it's important to take along a first aid kit that includes medications and equipment for treating minor llama injuries and ailments.
The amount of supplemental feed to bring will vary depending on how much vegetation will be available during the trip. On an average trip with good grazing opportunities supplemental feed may be limited to a pound or two of grain or hay pellets for treat or catch feed. On trips that include extended travel above treeline or where edible vegetation will be limited, about one pound per llama per day of a mixture of half corn, rolled oats, and rolled barley (COB) and half processed hay pellets is recommended. It's best if the feed is weed free certified in order to prevent introduction of non-native seeds into backcountry environments, and is required by some national parks and forests.
Transporting Llamas to the Trailhead
Pickups with stock racks, lightweight trailers and full-size vans will easily transport one or two pack llamas and their gear to the trailhead. Larger stock trailers may be used to transport three or more llamas.
An enclosed trailer or vehicle will protect llamas from the elements, allowing them to ride comfortably and safely. When hauling llamas in a covered trailer or stock rack you do not need to tie them. If using a stock rack or trailer with no roof, it's best to tie the llamas up on a short lead so that they will not jump out if they become excited.
When travelling long distances with llamas its a good idea to stop along the way, allowing them a little exercise and a chance to relieve themselves. After a long haul, llamas should be given an overnight rest before carrying a loaded pack up the trail.
Pre-trip Preparations
The key to successful llama packing is working with a healthy, well-conditioned and well-trained animal. Llamas, like people, benefit greatly by being in good shape before they're put to work carrying full loads. A pre-packing conditioning program should include regular walks with light packs, gradually working up to longer distances and heavier loads. Vaccinating for tetanus and other livestock concerns, worming for internal parasites and keeping toes properly trimmed will also help llamas maintain good health at home and on the trail. It's a good idea to do vaccinating, worming, and toe trimming well in advance of a pack trip to allow the llama time for any needed recovery. Consult ILR's brochure "Llama Medical Management" for more details on llamas' medical concerns.
It's a good idea to shear your pack llama every spring, especially in warmer climate areas. A shorn llama will stay cooler on the trail, his coat will be easier to keep debris-free, and saddling will be simpler without excess wool tangling in cinch straps. Shearing the llama's coat to 1-2 inches in length should be done at least over the saddle and cinch areas of the llama's back and belly using sharp scissors, hand shears or electric clippers.
Pack llamas should have experience being saddled and carrying light loads before their first trip into the backcountry. It's also important for them to know how to safely negotiate a picket line and simple obstacles like streams and fallen logs.
Some types of plants, such as those in the azalea and delphinium families, are poisonous to llamas and other livestock. Llama packers should be aware of and able to identify the potentially poisonous plants in the areas they visit. Their llamas should not be picketed near or allowed to browse on these plants during the trip. In addition, a llama first aid kit may include items that can be used to treat illness caused by plant poisoning.
When planning a trip on public lands, such as national parks or forests, llama packers should check with the agency in charge of administering the area. These officials can provide information on permits, trail conditions and any regulations that may apply to pack stock use.
On the Trail
Packing with llamas is a very special experience. Besides taking the load off your back they are unique trail companions. They often spot wildlife and other backcountry travelers well before you do. They often give vocal comments on trail conditions or their opinions about when it's time to take a break. The way they negotiate obstacles with aplomb is a never ending marvel.
More than one llama may be tied together to form a llama packstring. Llamas follow one another quite naturally, and quickly learn to "line out" as they proceed up the trail. The most common method of hitching a string of llamas together is to fasten the leadrope of the trailing llama to the saddle of the llama in front of him. Safety dictates that the attachment should be with a quick release knot or that a "weak link" of lighter cord or rubber should be used to allow the connection to break away if trouble arises. Leading a string of llamas requires that you pay extra attention. You should look back frequently to check on them and take care when negotiating obstacles.
While they may drink from streams along the trail, llamas may also completely abstain from drinking during the hike to camp. In either case they should be offered water in the evening after their ration of supplemental feed and again in the morning before hiking.
When possible llamas should be picketed within sight of camp, away from small trees and any potentially poisonous plants. Because llamas often choose the dampest areas in which to make their dung piles they should not be picketed too close to streams or lakes. As a safety measure, many packers attach the picket line to the stake with a piece of rubber or bungie cord. This acts as a shock absorber in case the llama spooks and runs abruptly to the end of its rope. On layover days, the llamas' picket sites should be moved morning and night to minimize grazing impact.
Llamas' padded feet, unobtrusive dung, and light browsing habits have a lower impact on the land than horses, mules and donkeys. In keeping with this principle, llama packers should make a special effort to practice "no trace" camping and leave as little evidence of their visit as possible. Llama groups should set up camp and stake out llamas away from other backcountry users to minimize social impacts. All garbage that is not burned should be packed out. Stoves should be used for cooking instead of wood fires. Human waste should be buried deeply, well away from water sources. All washing should be done away from streams and lakes. And before leaving camp, llamas' dung piles should be dispersed.
Special considerations should be made when llama packers meet horses and mules on the trail. These animals may become nervous or excited at their first sight of a llama piled high with a fully loaded pack. Safety dictates that llamas, as more maneuverable animals, give right of way to riders and their pack stock by stepping off the trail several yards to allow them to pass easily. Sometimes, this means going back down the trail a ways to a wider area. And when possible, getting off below the trail is preferable to above. It's helpful for llama packers to give a bit of warning to riders they see approaching, letting them know that they're traveling with llamas and that they'll get off the trail at the first opportunity. A friendly greeting goes a long way toward promoting good will, reassuring the horses and mules, and seeing that all parties have a safe and pleasant encounter.
Today, llamas are the newest pack animal to enter the North American backcountry. Many people have never seen a llama on the trail, and when llama packers meet hikers and riders they are presented with an opportunity to introduce others to the pleasures of traveling with llamas. A bit of time spent answering questions about how much they can pack and where they come from can increase good will and acceptance of these special creatures.
A final word of caution: packing with llamas can be habit forming; you may never want to carry a backpack again! For, when handled with respect and understanding, these unique animals will continually demonstrate their natural abilities as hard working trail companions.
About the Author: Stanlynn Daughtery
Stanlynn has been packing llamas since 1984. She drew on past experience working with horses and as a travel agent to develop her own commercial llama packing business in northeast Oregon . She has served on the Board of Directors of the ILA, the Eastern Oregon Outfitters and Guides Association and the Nez Perce National Historical Trail Advisory Council. She has chaired the ILA Packing Committee and facilitated their efforts to work with public lands agencies. Stanlynn is the author of Packing with Llamas, the first comprehensive guide to llama packing and has contributed many articles to Llamas magazine.
Additional sources of information on llama packing:
- The Backcountry Llama Newsletter llamapacker@kalama.co
- Field Guide to Plants Poisonous to Livestock, author: Shirley Weathers; Rosebud Press - wrw@ubtanet.com
- The Pack Llama Trial Association - PO Box 25 , Meridian , ID 83680
CARE FOR OUR OLD AND VENERABLE LLAMAS
– by Joann Fyon
Geriatric llamas matter because of who they are. They matter to the last moment of their life and we should do all we can to make their later years easy for them, to help them live and die peacefully. Never scrimp with these old friends, show no less appreciation of them than when they were born or when they came to us as the young companions we held as ideally suited to us.
There are several areas of concern when appraising the circumstances of an older llama, all of them critical to a comfortable old age. Medical issues to check routinely are teeth, weight, arthritis, joints and skeletal condition, absorption of nutrients and immune system health, vision, deafness and mental stability.
DENTAL HEALTH OFFERS CLUES
Dental health reflects the general health of your llamas. After years of grinding food and chewing cut, teeth become worn and malocclusion can occur. Start with a complete oral examination. Your vet can do this, but so can you. Be careful though – llamas’ teeth are sharp and pointed on the lingual or inside aspect of the upper jaw. If you choose to examine inside your llama’s mouth, remember that llamas aren’t able to open their mouths widely and usually don’t take kindly to having a thorough dental exam. If you suspect a problem, consult your vet.
Look for loss of teeth or an abscess. This can be more easily accomplished by feeling along the outside of the jaw in a Braille-like way, carefully monitoring your llama’s reaction to sudden pain while identifying swellings or finding spaces where teeth may be missing or where boluses can be felt through the cheek. Soft food boluses may just be retained cud, but if the bolus is not easily moved or if it’s still there the next day, this generally indicates an abscess. If the llama appears uncomfortable while you’re palpating her face, it could indicate a tooth worn to a point so uneven that it’s causing a laceration or perhaps sensitivity from uneven wear due to another infected root or a lost tooth. If you see an open, boil-like wound near the outside of the jaw line, consider that this might be an abscess rising to the surface from the inside of the mouth. Other problematic symptoms include spitting out of fist-sized masticated wads of lawn or food. You’ll discover them increasingly around the feeding area. This llama will have painful teeth, will show uneven wear creating sharp enamel points or excessive wear and will present weight loss due to cessation of eating. Your vet can remedy these teeth problems by floatation or filling with a miniature horse dental float and with perhaps a short, sturdy rubber hose placed between the molars to allow the llama to hold her mouth open. Sedation is wise if an abscess needs to be drained and flushed, and antibiotics should be administered. A caution here: be certain the mass is not a lymph node or a contagious abscess of ruminates. Abscesses are vet territory and extraction is usually the most successful treatment.
WEIGHT MAINTENANCE IS CRITICAL
Body condition score (BCS) is linked to almost all other ailments and symptoms in one way or another, so be thorough and routine. Every time you handle your elderly llama do a quick body score. But also be diligent and perform a complete BCS at least every two months; an old llama can lose a lot of weight fast before you know she’s precariously thin. Look for abrupt changes in weight and then look for the possible cause. Chances are she’s hungry, but can’t manage the transfer of food. Look for wads of chewed hay or grain spilling from her mouth while eating and check teeth.
The immune system can be compromised according to the age of a llama. This results in poor condition, metabolic dysfunction, inability to fight infections and failure to resist extremes in temperature. Test a stool sample and treat accordingly for parasites, including tapeworm; they are absorbing nutrients critical to her need to maintain weight. Don’t overdose. Look at the behavior of the rest of the herd. Has his social status shifted? Is she pushed out as she grows older? Geriatric llamas may need to be pastured together according to age or to compatibility. Never move your llamas to strange territory if you don’t have to and never leave them without a familiar ally. Many of us have seen young llamas fail to thrive when left alone and uncared for. In my opinion, older llamas are exponentially more vulnerable to losing their mental stability if neglected by their people or their herd mates. They depend on friendly, familiar peers and predictability, and they don’t deserve to be abandoned, now or ever.
NUTRITION BOOSTERS
Boosting the nutrition of an aging llama is of paramount concern. If any of the above problems are possibilities, now is the time to create a nutritional plan. Carbohydrates (grains) should be increased; also green food. If chewing is the problem, start feeding a balanced gruel type meal twice a day. I have a 25-year-old female in moderately good health, still very active and fit. I’ve been feeding her a mash for almost two years on the recommendation of LaRue Johnson. This is the recipe and his suggestions for variations: ½ part alfalfa pellets, 1/3 part flaked corn (or steamed or crimped oats, not whole), 1/3 part llama pellets (or Agway llama supplement or whole cottonseed with fluff).
For my 250-lb, 25-year-old girl, in the peak of the winter, these parts total two cups of dry feed in her bucket, warmed in the house overnight, to which I add the same amount of hot water and allow the liquid to absorb for a few minutes, turning it into a soft, dense gruel. (This amount will vary; consult your vet.) Dr. Johnson suggested I spray thinned-out molasses on it for palatability, but so far my old gal will run across seven acres to greet me when, and if, she sees me. She can’t hear me call for her anymore. Use fresh feed to prevent stomach upset. If you suspect mold in your grain, use a black light to identify it. Here’s how: in a dark stall, slowly pour the feed into a large box while shining the light on it. In the spring when the grass is growing again, your geriatric llama may turn her nose up at any mash in favor of coveted and beneficial tender young shoots. At this time check teeth more often for atypical condition, weigh and body score your llama with the purpose of supplementing with a mash when necessary. Always keep a vitamin and mineral salt mix accessible all year round.
On to the question of vision and hearing impairment: many older llamas develop cataracts causing gradual deterioration of their vision. Keep them in familiar pastures in which they don’t need to jump over streams or negotiate steep hills, and check your fields for rocks or small stumps and especially for stray wire or metal objects. True hearing loss is untreatable, so be prepared to spend some time walking out get your older llama. Maybe we can learn from them by tuning up our other senses as they do.
KEEP NAILS CLIPPED
Arthritis, joint flexibility and feet are age-related concerns. Sound conformation will live on to benefit and old llama. Conversely, the constant abnormal stretching and pulling of ligaments and tendons of less well conformed animals still cause them to suffer accordingly, and pain and lameness will occur. Your vet can suggest an anti-inflammatory or pain reliever. Keep feet in good shape by regular trimming: even a little too much nail length can cause a strain on fragile old joints.
As your llama’s age, fiber regrowth will slow down and the importance of shearing may be lessened. Depending on the severity of temperatures where you live, shearing might not be necessary. In the spring in northern New Hampshire, I only shear the “vents” enough to allow air to circulate underneath my old llamas. Provide a pan and cool water and if some of the herd chooses to lie outside in the heat of the day, you can provide a heat-susceptible llama with a mellow buddy and keep them in a cool place until the night air arrives. If heat or sunstroke is suspected (your llama will stagger, become disoriented or fall), get a hose or bucket of water, a large sponge and a thermometer. Immediately soak the top of the head first (the brain is swelling) then the vents, underbelly and hairless areas. Unless this llama is thoroughly shorn, do not apply water to the topline; it will “felt” and seal the fiber so heat cannot escape. This llama is at great risk. Get help. Night is the time llamas love to put on their dancing shoes and stay out till the wee hours. For their sake let them; it will be winter again soon enough.
GAUGE SHEARING TO LLAMA’S AGE
Even without annual shearing, your older llamas’ winter undercoat will probably be minimal throughout their later years. If the temperature gets below 10 degrees or so at my farm, I keep a secure but not tight llama (not Horse) blanket on them and a fleece covering for their neck if it’s really cold. This past winter I almost never took the blankets off, except to scratch, it was so consistently frigid. I’ll risk telling you that when I did remove blankets every couple of days; I spent a great deal of satisfying time scratching these cooperative old friends who would stare me down if I stopped too soon. Provide clean warm drinking water. Heated buckets are the best! Old llamas slow down, kush and rest a lot. Consequently, changes in herd status related to inability to move quickly may mean your llama gets pushed to the back of the feeding area. Lifelong exercise will benefit any animal and confining them to a barn everyday, especially common in the winter months, will do nothing to build bone and muscles. Try to keep your llamas vigorous in the winter unless it’s bitter. Use a tractor to clear a walk about or shovel apathy for them – it’s good for you too! They come honestly by the ability to move freely and withstand outside weather, even though they would have us believe otherwise!
Spend time with these old souls and develop empathy for them, they have a lot to teach us. The essence of a good handler is to know what your llamas need before they themselves know. Turn what you think may be a lot of extra work into good judgment and knowledge. You’ll be proud of how your eye will begin to alert you and its important now to put to use the intuition you’ve gleaned from spending time with them. Refer to your vet and vet manuals, talk to respected longtime llama owners. Exercise one-on-one awareness and you can make the difference between a suffering, forgotten llama and one whose condition is eased by an informed and comforting standard of care.
Reprinted from The Llama Lletter Vol. 20, No. 3 – the newsletter of the Willamette Valley Llama Association.
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The Brownderosa |
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Hinterland Llamas |
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Little Doc's Veterinary Care |
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Llama Things Carolyn Myers Rt. 1 Box 62 Lakeview, TX 79239 806-867-3423 800-552-6213 carolynmyers@arn.net www.llamathings.com |
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Mountain Oaks Ranch |
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Rocky Mountain Llamas |
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Steven's Llama Tique and Suri Alpacas |
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Tally Ho's Big Sky Ranch |
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Traditional Lama Coalition |
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Wilkins Livestock Insurers, Inc. |